Korean for "selling crappy souvenirs to tourists."

After the traditional village, we went to Insadong, a shopping district that is closed off to vehicular traffic (note: you have no idea how good an idea this is. While the major boulevards are hazardous, the side streets are flat-out deadly. Cars hurtle down windy little roads at Andretti-esque speeds, and clearly care not a whit if they hit you. Moreover, they don't even use the horn. They just drive up behind you and hope that you notice them before you get hit. I've taken to flattening myself up against the walls of buildings and sliding along, the way a character does when he's on the ledge in a movie. Perhaps because there's almost no violent crime in Korea, they feel the need to make up for it by inducing as many car fatalities as possible). It's actually pretty nice. We stopped for shikeh (see below) in a beautiful garden off the street, and wandered around looking at the wares for sale. The more "upscale" part of Insadong ends in an explosion of neon, and all of a sudden you're in the Seoul equivalent of Times square, with a hundred different establishments vying for your attention (and your wan) all at once. Kind of a sensory overload, but pretty cool nevertheless. I'm not posting all of my pictures, but I have some nice ones from this excursion, so if you'd like me to email them to you, lemme know.