Panmunjeom and the JSA

Following the briefing, we went into the DMZ to Panmunjeom, the UN-established area where the two sides come right up against the border. Getting off the bus, we formed two single-file lines and walked briskly into the visitor reception area (we were not allowed to stop and take pictures). We walked through a hall and then through the back door, where we saw the North Korean counterpart maybe a few hundred feet across. Basically, there's a courtyard between the two welcome centers with four diplomatic structures that house talks set up between them. The border itself is represented by a raised concrete slab that runs across the courtyard and bisects all the diplomatic buildings. Looking across the courtyard, we could see the North Korean soldiers watching us.

I cannot describe how intense this is. There is no fraternization of any kind between the KPA and the ROK soliders. They stand at attention on their respective sides, staring each other down. The ROK soldiers stand half-shielded by the diplomatic houses (to provide the North Koreans with a smaller target), in a modified tae-kwon-do stance. They wear dark sunglasses at all times to maximize the intimidation factor. It works. We were told to stand in a very specific spot to look across, and told that we could, under no circumstances, gesture or point towards the North Korean soldiers watching us. At one point, one member of our group stepped down out of the demarcated area and our guide yelled "Sir, do not step down off that step!" The air of menace and hostility is palpable. When KPA soldiers emerged from their building, the crowd involuntarily gasped. The KPA soldiers embody evil and menace here, and everyone was on high alert.

When the time came, we entered one of the diplomatic structures, which looked like a small school room. Because the room is bisected, half is on Southern Soil and half is on Northern soil. Thus, I was actually able to enter, briefly, into North Korea. The North Koreans and South Koreans take turns using it for visitors, although sometimes the North Korean soldiers lock it so the Southerners cannot get in. When that happens, the Southerners use and old Soviet-style phone to call the Northern welcome center. If that fails, they send a fax, and if that fails, they bring out a large loudspeaker and broadcast their message. Should they still get no response, they talk to the one UN envoy stationed at Panmunjeom, who gets the North Koreans to re-open the visitor center.